NAD+ is increasingly appearing in skin care cosmetics, including Korean toners, essences, serums, and products promoted as skin boosters. However, a clear distinction must be made between topically applied NAD+ and oral supplements, injections, and intravenous infusions discussed in other guides on NAD+. The purpose of use is different. The product formulation is different. The available scientific evidence is also different. A cosmetic containing NAD+ is primarily intended for localized action on the skin, rather than for increasing NAD+ levels throughout the entire body.
In this article, we explain this difference, discuss the use of NAD+ in topical formulations, analyze the relationship between NAD+, collagen, and skin aging, and separate current scientific data from broader marketing claims used in the cosmetic industry.
Topical NAD+ vs. oral or injectable NAD+: These are not the same product category
Topical NAD+ and oral or injected NAD+ have completely different applications.
They should not be treated as interchangeable forms of the same intervention.
Oral and injectable NAD+-related products are typically used with the intent to influence systemic NAD+ availability.
Research in this area often measures blood NAD+ concentration, NAD+-related metabolites, energy metabolism parameters, or biological markers associated with specific diseases.
Topically applied cosmetics with NAD+ have a much more limited purpose.
They are applied directly to the surface of the skin with the intention of influencing local biological processes rather than whole-body NAD+ levels.
The most important cells in this context are keratinocytes and fibroblasts.
Keratinocytes are the predominant cell type in the epidermis, which is the outer layer of the skin.
Fibroblasts are located deeper, in the dermis, and are responsible for the production of important structural components such as collagen and elastin.
A topical product containing NAD+ is therefore intended to act primarily on these local skin structures. [1]
It is not usually expected to provide the same systemic exposure as an oral supplement, injection, or intravenous infusion.
This distinction is particularly important when interpreting research.
Evidence showing that oral NR or NMN increases blood NAD+ levels cannot automatically be used as proof that an NAD+ tonic reduces wrinkles.
Similarly, a laboratory study conducted on skin cells does not prove that an intravenous NAD+ infusion improves the appearance of the skin.
Each form requires a separate evaluation of available data.
How is NAD+ used in cosmetics?
Analyzing actual cosmetic formulations helps to understand how NAD+ is currently positioned in the skincare market.
It is rarely the only active ingredient.
In many products, NAD+ is just one element of a more complex formulation.
For example, the Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner contains NAD+ along with several other ingredients used in cosmetics.
Such preparations may also contain niacinamide, PDRN, peptide complexes, adenosine, ceramides, antioxidants, and other active ingredients.
Niacinamide is often listed higher on the ingredient list than NAD+.
This matters because niacinamide has its own much more extensive research base regarding skin care and can independently affect pigmentation, skin barrier function, skin texture, and visible signs of aging.
PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, is another distinct ingredient.
It consists of fragments derived from DNA, described in a cosmetic and regenerative context, and has its own research literature regarding tissue repair and biological skin processes.
Peptide complexes can introduce additional mechanisms of action.
Adenosine, ceramides, resveratrol, hyaluronic acid, and other ingredients can independently support hydration, the skin barrier, antioxidant protection, or skin appearance.
This leads to an important interpretive problem.
If someone uses a multi-ingredient tonic or serum with NAD+ and notices smoother, brighter, or better-hydrated skin, that change cannot be automatically attributed to NAD+.
Several other ingredients of the same formulation may be responsible for the observed effect.
This is of particular importance when comparing products from brands such as Numbuzin, Medicube, Illuma, and similar ones.
In practice, this is usually not a simple comparison of NAD+ with NAD+.
Entire formulations are compared containing different concentrations, supporting ingredients, delivery systems, preservatives, moisturizing agents, and other active ingredients.
Currently, there is also no standardized concentration of topical NAD+ that would allow these products to be compared in a way similar to comparing two capsules containing 300 mg of NMN each.
NAD+, collagen, and skin aging
The proposed relationship between NAD+ and collagen stems primarily from the biology of cellular aging.
Collagen is one of the main structural proteins of the skin.
It affects its firmness, mechanical strength, and the architecture of the dermis.
The production and maintenance of collagen gradually change with age.
Fibroblast activity may decrease.
The number of cells in a state of senescence may increase.
Extracellular matrix remodeling may become less efficient.
These changes contribute to a loss of firmness, changes in skin texture, and the formation of wrinkles.
NAD+ is important in this context because sirtuins require NAD+ for their activity. [1]
Sirtuins are a family of NAD+-dependent enzymes involved in the cellular response to stress, metabolism, gene regulation, and several processes related to aging.
Some pathways associated with sirtuins also affect fibroblast function, cellular senescence, and extracellular matrix regulation.
This creates a plausible mechanistic link between the appropriate amount of intracellular NAD+ and the proper functioning of skin cells.
However, this does not mean that an increase in human collagen production has been demonstrated after applying NAD+ to the skin.
The whole process is more complex.
NAD+ would first have to penetrate the skin barrier in a sufficient amount.
Then it would have to reach the appropriate living cells.
These cells would have to uptake or utilize the molecule.
Only then would such a change have to lead to a measurable increase in collagen synthesis, structural changes in the skin, or an improvement in its appearance.
Direct human clinical data confirming this entire chain are currently limited.
Can NAD+ and collagen be taken together?
This question comes up frequently because both NAD+-related products and collagen supplements are popular in the longevity and skincare communities.
There is no known direct interaction suggesting that topical or oral products related to NAD+ are inherently incompatible with oral collagen supplements.
They work through different biological pathways.
Hydrolyzed collagen provides collagen-derived peptides and amino acids, while NAD+-related products are intended to influence nicotinamide metabolism or cellular NAD+ availability.
That is why they may appear in the same general skincare and wellness routines.
However, there is a significant gap in the evidence.
There are no adequately conducted clinical trials specifically testing the combination of NAD+ and oral collagen regarding skin effects.
Claims regarding a specific synergistic effect therefore remain theoretical.
The simultaneous use of both products does not automatically mean that one enhances the biological effect of the other.
What do NAD+ skin booster products typically contain?
Products marketed as NAD+ skin boosters typically contain much more than just NAD+.
Several groups of ingredients appear regularly in this category.
NAD+
NAD+ may be included as one of the ingredients in a formulation.
In many cases, it appears relatively low on a long list of ingredients.
Its inclusion is often part of a product's marketing message related to longevity, cellular aging, or a more scientific image of the cosmetic product.
At the same time, the exact amount of NAD+ is not always clearly stated.
This makes it difficult to compare concentrations across products.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is very often found in the same products.
It is particularly important because it is both a well-known cosmetic ingredient and a biological precursor involved in NAD+ metabolism.
Skin cells can use niacinamide in the NAD+ salvage pathway. [1]
Even more importantly, topical niacinamide has a much stronger body of clinical research on the skin than topical NAD+.
A well-known, 12-week, double-blind, randomized, split-face, placebo-controlled study evaluated topically applied 5% niacinamide. [2]
Improvements in several visible skin parameters were demonstrated.
These included fine lines and wrinkles, discoloration, skin texture, red spots, and a sallow complexion compared to the control cream.
This is direct clinical evidence involving human subjects.
Comparable controlled cosmetic studies on topical NAD+ alone are much harder to find.
PDRN and other supporting ingredients
Many NAD+ products also contain PDRN.
PDRN has its own research facilities dedicated to tissue repair and regenerative biology.
Other formulations may contain peptide complexes, adenosine, ingredients mimicking the action of growth factors, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, resveratrol, and additional antioxidants.
Each of these ingredients can independently affect the appearance or condition of the skin.
This makes it difficult to attribute the effect to a single ingredient.
The observable effect of the NAD+ skin booster should therefore be considered the result of the entire formulation, unless NAD+ itself has been tested separately.
In many products, niacinamide and other more well-established active ingredients currently have stronger direct clinical evidence than NAD+ alone.
Do studies confirm the effects of topical NAD+ on the skin?
Direct evidence regarding local NAD+ itself remains limited.
The available studies provide some mechanistic support, but there remains a significant gap between the results obtained in cell cultures and confirmed cosmetic effects in humans.
What do the laboratory tests show?
One important study evaluated a liposomal formulation of NAD+ in cultured human endothelial cells and keratinocytes. [3]
Keratinocytes play a direct role in skin biology because they make up a significant portion of the epidermis.
Researchers have shown that the liposomal NAD+ formulation had a stronger effect on certain markers associated with cellular senescence than non-liposomal NAD+.
These results support the hypothesis that NAD+ may influence cellular processes related to aging in laboratory conditions.
They also suggest that the delivery technology may matter.
However, it was an in vitro study.
The cells were directly exposed to the preparation under controlled laboratory conditions.
This is a completely different situation than applying a cosmetic serum to intact human skin.
The skin constitutes an important physical barrier.
The substance must pass through the outer stratum corneum before reaching the living keratinocytes or the deeper dermal fibroblasts.
The activity observed in cell culture does not prove that a commercial toner or serum delivers a sufficient amount of intact NAD+ to produce the same effect in humans.
Does NAD+ easily penetrate the skin?
This is one of the most important unknowns regarding local NAD+.
NAD+ has a molecular mass of approximately 663 daltons.
It is also highly charged and soluble in water.
These properties generally hinder effective passive penetration through intact skin.
The skin barrier allows smaller and more lipophilic molecules to pass through more easily.
This does not mean that local delivery of NAD+ is impossible.
Advanced systems, such as liposomes, nanoparticles, penetration enhancers, microneedles, and other formulation technologies, can improve the transport of substances through the skin or around its barrier.
The most important question, however, is whether a specific commercial product actually uses a validated delivery system and whether it has been shown to transport intact NAD+ to the living layers of human skin.
For most regular tonics and NAD+ serums, this has not been clearly demonstrated.
Without appropriate delivery system data, there is therefore a legitimate pharmacological question as to how much NAD+ actually reaches living skin cells and how much remains mainly on or near the surface.
Why is the evidence regarding niacinamide stronger?
Niacinamide does not have the same evidence problem.
Topically applied niacinamide has been evaluated in controlled clinical trials regarding skin care. [2]
Its effect on fine lines, pigmentation, redness, skin texture, and overall skin appearance has been demonstrated in humans, not just in isolated cells.
It also has a long history of use in cosmetics and formulation research.
For this reason, it is a much more established topical ingredient.
This is of particular importance, as many products promoted through NAD+ also contain niacinamide.
While a multi-ingredient toner containing NAD+ improves the appearance of the skin, niacinamide is already a well-documented candidate that may be responsible for part of this effect.
Other auxiliary components may also be significant.
What is the current scientific conclusion?
Topical NAD+ has an interesting biological rationale.
Laboratory studies suggest that NAD+ may influence processes related to senescence in cells relevant to the skin, especially when a liposomal formulation is used. [3]
However, strong clinical confirmation is lacking.
There are no robust controlled human studies showing that conventional NAD+ serum or toner reduces wrinkles, improves elasticity, increases collagen, reduces hyperpigmentation, or causes visible skin rejuvenation specifically due to NAD+.
Current data therefore justify defining topical NAD+ as a developing cosmetic ingredient with an interesting biological mechanism, rather than as a clinically confirmed method of skin rejuvenation.
NAD+ in skincare — a summary of the evidence
| Research question | Current state of evidence |
|---|---|
| Does topical NAD+ differ from oral or injectable NAD+? | Yes |
| Is NAD+ found in commercial tonics and cheeses? | Yes |
| Is NAD+ usually the only active ingredient? | Not |
| Do many NAD+ products also contain niacinamide? | Yes |
| Has topical niacinamide been studied in controlled human trials? | Yes [2] |
| Does NAD+ exhibit biological activity in skin-related cells? | Yes, in vitro [3] |
| Do standard topical NAD+ products effectively penetrate human skin? | It has not been clearly established |
| Does topical NAD+ increase collagen in humans? | Not established |
| Does it reduce wrinkles in controlled human trials? | Not established |
| Does it clinically improve skin elasticity? | Not established |
| Are specific brand products independently clinically validated? | Usually not established |
| Can liposomal delivery matter? | Yes, mechanistically |
| Is topical NAD+ a proven anti-aging treatment? | Not |
Frequently asked questions about NAD+ in skincare
Is NAD+ good for the skin?
NAD+ has biological significance for proper cellular metabolism and many processes related to aging. Laboratory studies also suggest an effect on senescence-related processes in skin-relevant cells.
However, it has not yet been demonstrated in controlled human studies that topical NAD+ alone improves wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, collagen levels, or other visible skin parameters.
Does NAD+ increase collagen production?
No direct increase in collagen in human skin has been demonstrated following the topical application of NAD+.
NAD+-dependent pathways, including sirtuin signaling, are biologically linked to fibroblast function and cellular senescence, but this mechanistic relationship should not be treated as clinical proof that NAD+ serum increases collagen in the dermis.
Can NAD+ and collagen be taken together?
There is no known direct interaction indicating that NAD+-related products and oral collagen supplements are inherently incompatible.
They work through different biological pathways.
However, adequate clinical studies specifically evaluating this combination for skin benefits have not been conducted, so claims of synergy remain unconfirmed.
Is NAD+ the same as niacinamide in cosmetics?
No.
NAD+ is nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, while niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that can serve as a precursor for the synthesis of NAD+ within cells.
Niacinamide also has a much larger body of direct clinical research on skin care than topical NAD+ alone.
Does NAD+ help with wrinkles?
Currently, there is no robust, controlled data in humans showing that topical NAD+ alone reduces wrinkles.
Some NAD+ products also contain niacinamide and other ingredients for which there is evidence of improvement in fine lines and skin appearance.
For this reason, it is difficult to attribute the observed effect solely to NAD+.
Does NAD+ penetrate the skin?
NAD+ is a relatively large, highly charged, and water-soluble molecule, which makes passive diffusion through intact skin difficult.
Specialized delivery systems, such as liposomes, may improve transport, but the amount of intact NAD+ reaching living skin cells from ordinary commercial toners or serums has not been well established.
Are NAD+ skin boosters clinically proven?
Not as a standardized product category.
Individual formulations vary significantly and usually contain many active ingredients.
Clinical evidence in humans is currently stronger for ingredients such as niacinamide than for topical NAD+ alone.
Is liposomal NAD+ better for the skin?
Liposomal delivery is of interest from a mechanistic perspective because it may enhance the transport of NAD+ into cells.
In laboratory studies, the liposomal NAD+ formulation had a stronger effect on certain markers of senescence than NAD+ without liposomes. [3]
However, no adequate controlled cosmetic studies in humans have been conducted to confirm better visual results.
Do Numbuzin, Medicube, and Illuma products work because of NAD+?
This has not been demonstrated for NAD+ alone.
These products contain more complex combinations of ingredients, and the visible results may be due to the effects of niacinamide, PDRN, peptides, moisturizing ingredients, antioxidants, or other substances present in the formulation.
There is a lack of brand-specific clinical studies that would identify NAD+ as the direct cause of the improvement.
Limitations of current research
The biggest limitation is the lack of direct, controlled studies in humans specifically examining topical NAD+.
No published placebo-controlled cosmetic study has been identified that isolated NAD+ and evaluated parameters such as wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, pigmentation, collagen, or visible skin rejuvenation.
The data most directly related to NAD+ come from studies using cell cultures. [3]
This research is useful for understanding biological mechanisms.
However, they do not replicate the full properties of the skin barrier, tissue structure, circulation, metabolism, or the long-term responses of living human skin.
The second limitation is the complexity of the formulation.
Commercial products from brands such as Numbuzin, Medicube, Illuma, and others typically contain many active ingredients.
This makes it difficult to determine which ingredient is responsible for the visible effect.
Niacinamide is particularly important because it is commonly found in such products and has already been the subject of controlled human studies confirming several cosmetic benefits. [2]
Another limitation concerns absorption through the skin.
The molecular weight of NAD+, its charge, and its solubility in water raise valid questions about the amount of the intact molecule that reaches living skin cells after applying a regular toner or serum.
Specialized delivery technologies can improve this process, but they must be evaluated separately for each product.
Brand-specific data is also limited.
Research on a single NAD+ formulation cannot automatically be applied to every commercial product containing an ingredient with the same name.
The current data therefore support the view that topical NAD+ is an emerging and mechanistically interesting cosmetic ingredient, while acknowledging that niacinamide and several other active ingredients often found in the same formulations currently have stronger direct clinical evidence regarding visible benefits for the skin.
Disclaimer
This article is intended solely for educational and informational purposes. It does not constitute medical advice, dermatological advice, product recommendations, or an endorsement of NAD+ cosmetics, collagen supplements, or any of the brands mentioned.
Topical NAD+ products are usually sold as cosmetics rather than approved treatments for wrinkles, pigmentation disorders, skin aging, collagen loss, or other dermatological problems. Current research does not confirm that topical NAD+ alone clinically increases collagen levels, reverses skin aging, or produces systemic effects associated with NAD+.
Brand names such as Numbuzin, Medicube, and Illuma have been mentioned solely to describe products present in the cosmetics market. This should not be interpreted as a recommendation or proof that the NAD+ content in these products has been independently validated in controlled clinical trials.
Individuals with persistent skin irritation, inflammatory skin conditions, unexplained pigmentation changes, or other dermatological problems should consult a suitably qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist rather than treating NAD+ cosmetics as a method of treatment.
References
[1] Yoshino, J., Baur, J. A., & Imai, S. (2018). NAD+ intermediates: The biology and therapeutic potential of NMN and NR. Cell Metabolism, 27(3), 513–528. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cmet.2017.11.002
[2] Bissett, D. L., Miyamoto, K., Sun, P., Li, J., & Berge, C. A. (2004). Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26(5), 231–238. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00228.x
[3] Ministrini, S., Liberale, L., Erle, H.-E., Percoco, G., Tfayli, A., Assi, A., Kapitonov, I., Greiner, I., & Camici, G. G. (2025). A liposomal formulation enhances the anti-senescence properties of nicotinamide adenine-dinucleotide (NAD+) in endothelial cells and keratinocytes. Current Issues in Molecular Biology, 47(9), 722. https://doi.org/10.3390/cimb47090722