NAD+ in skincare: serums, toners and topical products

NAD+ is increasingly appearing in skin care cosmetics, including Korean toners, essences, serums, and products promoted as skin boosters. However, a clear distinction must be made between topically applied NAD+ and the oral supplements, injections, and intravenous infusions discussed in other guides on NAD+. The purpose of use is different. The product formulation is different. The available scientific evidence is also different. A cosmetic containing NAD+ is primarily intended for topical action on the skin, rather than for increasing NAD+ levels throughout the entire body.

In this article we explain this difference, discuss how NAD+ is used in topical preparations, examine the relationship between NAD+, collagen and skin ageing, and separate current scientific data from the broader marketing claims used in the cosmetic industry.

Topical NAD+ versus oral or injectable NAD+: these are not in the same product category

NAD+ applied topically and NAD+ taken orally or administered by injection have completely different uses.

They should not be treated as interchangeable forms of the same intervention.

Oral and injectable NAD+ related products are usually used with the intention of influencing systemic NAD+ availability.

Research in this area often measures NAD+ concentration in the blood, NAD+-related metabolites, energy metabolism parameters or biological markers associated with specific diseases.

Topically applied cosmetics containing NAD+ have a much more limited purpose.

They are applied directly to the surface of the skin with the intention of influencing local biological processes, rather than NAD+ levels throughout the body.

The most significant cells in this context are keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

Keratinocytes are the predominant cell type in the epidermis, which is the outer layer of the skin.

Fibroblasts are located deeper, in the dermis, and are responsible for the production of important structural components, such as collagen and elastin.

A topical NAD+ product is therefore intended to act primarily on these local skin structures. [1]

It is not usually expected to provide the same systemic exposure as an oral supplement, injection or intravenous infusion.

This distinction is particularly important when interpreting research.

Evidence showing that oral NR or NMN increases blood NAD+ levels cannot automatically be used as proof that an NAD+ toner reduces wrinkles.

Similarly, a laboratory study conducted on skin cells does not prove that an intravenous NAD+ infusion improves the appearance of the skin.

Each form requires a separate evaluation of the available data.

How is NAD+ used in cosmetics?

Analysis of real cosmetic formulations helps to understand how NAD+ is currently positioned in the skincare market.

It is rarely the only active ingredient.

In many products, NAD+ is just one element of a more complex formulation.

For example, the Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner contains NAD+ along with several other ingredients used in cosmetics.

Such preparations may also contain niacinamide, PDRN, peptide complexes, adenosine, ceramides, antioxidants, and other active substances.

Niacinamide is often found higher up the ingredients list than NAD+.

This matters because niacinamide has its own, much more extensive research base regarding skin care and can independently affect pigmentation, skin barrier function, skin texture, and visible signs of ageing.

PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, is yet another distinct ingredient.

It consists of fragments derived from DNA, described in a cosmetic and regenerative context, and has its own research literature concerning tissue repair and biological skin processes.

Peptide complexes can introduce further mechanisms of action.

Adenosine, ceramides, resveratrol, hyaluronic acid and other ingredients can independently support hydration, the skin barrier, antioxidant protection or the appearance of the skin.

This leads to an important interpretive problem.

If someone uses a multi-ingredient tonic or serum containing NAD+ and notices smoother, brighter or better hydrated skin, this change cannot automatically be attributed to the NAD+.

Several other ingredients of the same formulation may be responsible for the observed effect.

This is of particular importance when comparing products from brands such as Numbuzin, Medicube, Illuma and similar.

In practice, this is not usually a simple comparison of NAD+ with NAD+.

Whole formulations containing different concentrations, adjuvant ingredients, delivery systems, preservatives, moisturising agents and other active ingredients are compared.

Currently, there is also no standardised concentration of topical NAD+ that would allow these products to be compared in a way similar to comparing two capsules containing 300 mg of NMN each.

NAD+, collagen and skin ageing

The proposed link between NAD+ and collagen stems primarily from the biology of cellular ageing.

Collagen is one of the main structural proteins of the skin.

It influences its firmness, mechanical strength and dermal architecture.

The production and maintenance of collagen gradually change with age.

Fibroblast activity may decrease.

The number of cells in a state of senescence may increase.

Extracellular matrix remodelling may become less efficient.

These changes contribute to a loss of firmness, changes in skin texture, and the formation of wrinkles.

NAD+ is important in this context because sirtuins require NAD+ for their activity. [1]

Sirtuins are a family of NAD+-dependent enzymes involved in the cellular response to stress, metabolism, gene regulation and several processes associated with ageing.

Some sirtuin-related pathways also affect fibroblast function, cellular senescence and extracellular matrix regulation.

This creates a credible mechanistic link between adequate intracellular NAD+ levels and the proper functioning of skin cells.

However, this does not mean that an increase in human collagen production has been demonstrated after applying NAD+ to the skin.

The whole process is more complex.

NAD+ would first have to penetrate the skin barrier in a sufficient amount.

Then it would have to reach the appropriate living cells.

These cells would have to uptake or utilise the molecule.

Only afterwards would such a change have to lead to a measurable increase in collagen synthesis, structural changes in the skin or an improvement in its appearance.

Direct data from human studies confirming this entire chain are currently limited.

Can NAD+ and collagen be used together?

This question comes up often because both NAD+ related products and collagen supplements are popular in the longevity and skincare communities.

There is no known direct interaction to suggest that topical or oral NAD+-related products are inherently incompatible with oral collagen supplements.

They act via different biological pathways.

Hydrolysed collagen provides peptides and amino acids derived from collagen, whilst NAD+-related products are thought to influence nicotinamide metabolism or the availability of NAD+ within cells.

That is why they can appear in the same general skincare and wellness routines.

However, there is a significant gap in the evidence.

There are no properly conducted clinical trials specifically testing the combination of NAD+ and oral collagen for its effects on the skin.

Claims regarding a specific synergistic effect therefore remain theoretical.

The simultaneous use of both products does not automatically mean that one increases the biological effect of the other.

What do NAD+ skin booster products usually contain?

Products sold as NAD+ skin boosters typically contain much more than just NAD+.

Several groups of ingredients regularly recur in this category.

NAD+

NAD+ may be present as one of the ingredients in the formulation.

In many cases, it appears relatively low down on a long list of ingredients.

Its inclusion is often part of a product’s marketing message relating to longevity, cellular ageing or the more scientific image of the cosmetic.

At the same time, the exact amount of NAD+ is not always clearly stated.

This makes it difficult to compare concentrations between products.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide very often appears in the same formulations.

It is particularly important because it is both a well-known cosmetic ingredient and a biological precursor involved in NAD+ metabolism.

Skin cells can utilise niacinamide in the NAD+ regeneration pathway. [1]

Even more importantly, topical niacinamide has a significantly stronger clinical research base for the skin than topical NAD+.

A well-known, 12-week, double-blind, randomised, split-face, placebo-controlled trial evaluated topically applied 5% niacinamide. [2]

Improvements in several visible skin parameters have been demonstrated.

These included fine lines and wrinkles, discolouration, skin texture, red patches and a sallow complexion, compared with the control cream.

This is direct clinical evidence involving humans.

Comparable controlled cosmetic studies specifically regarding topical NAD+ alone are much harder to find.

PDRN and other supportive ingredients

Many NAD+ products also contain PDRN.

PDRN has its own research facilities for tissue repair and regenerative biology.

Other formulations may contain peptide complexes, adenosine, growth factor-mimicking ingredients, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, resveratrol and additional antioxidants.

Each of these ingredients can independently affect the appearance or condition of the skin.

This makes it difficult to attribute the effect to a single ingredient.

The observable effect of the NAD+ skin booster should therefore be regarded as the result of the formulation as a whole, unless NAD+ itself has been tested separately.

In many products, niacinamide and other more established active ingredients currently have stronger direct clinical evidence than NAD+ on its own.

Do studies confirm the effects of topical NAD+ on the skin?

Direct evidence regarding local NAD+ itself remains limited.

The available studies provide some mechanistic support, but there remains a significant gap between the results obtained in cell cultures and confirmed cosmetic effects in humans.

What do the laboratory tests show?

One significant study evaluated a liposomal formulation of NAD+ in cultured human endothelial cells and keratinocytes. [3]

Keratinocytes are of direct importance to skin biology, as they make up a significant portion of the epidermis.

Researchers have shown that the liposomal formulation of NAD+ had a stronger effect on certain markers associated with cellular senescence than non-liposomal NAD+.

These results support the hypothesis that NAD+ may influence cellular processes associated with ageing under laboratory conditions.

They also suggest that the delivery technology may matter.

However, this was an in vitro study.

The cells were directly exposed to the preparation under controlled laboratory conditions.

This is a completely different situation from applying a cosmetic serum to intact human skin.

The skin forms an essential physical barrier.

The substance must pass through the outer stratum corneum before reaching the living keratinocytes or the deeper fibroblasts of the dermis.

Activity observed in cell culture therefore does not prove that a commercial tonic or serum delivers a sufficient amount of intact NAD+ to produce the same effect in humans.

Does NAD+ easily penetrate the skin?

This is one of the most important unknowns concerning local NAD+.

NAD+ has a molecular mass of approximately 663 daltons.

It is also strongly charged and soluble in water.

These properties generally hinder effective passive penetration through intact skin.

The skin barrier is more permeable to smaller and more lipophilic molecules.

This does not mean that localised delivery of NAD+ is impossible.

Advanced systems, such as liposomes, nanoparticles, penetration enhancers, microneedles and other formulation technologies, can improve the transport of substances through the skin or around its barrier.

The key question, however, is whether a particular commercial product actually uses a validated delivery system and whether it has been demonstrated that it transports intact NAD+ to the living layers of human skin.

In the case of most standard NAD+ tonics and serums, this has not been clearly demonstrated.

Without adequate data on the delivery system, there is therefore a legitimate pharmacological question as to how much NAD+ actually reaches living skin cells, and how much remains mainly on or near the surface.

Why is the evidence regarding niacinamide stronger?

Niacinamide does not have the same evidence problem.

Topical niacinamide has been evaluated in controlled clinical trials focusing on skin care. [2]

Its effect on fine lines, pigmentation, redness, skin texture and overall skin appearance has been demonstrated in humans, not just in isolated cells.

It also has a long history of use in cosmetics and formulation research.

For this reason, it is a much more established local ingredient.

This is particularly significant because many products marketed for their NAD+ content also contain niacinamide.

If a multi-ingredient toner containing NAD+ improves skin appearance, niacinamide is already a well-documented candidate that may account for part of this effect.

Other auxiliary ingredients may also be significant.

What is the current scientific consensus?

Localised NAD+ has an interesting biological rationale.

Laboratory studies suggest that NAD+ may influence processes associated with senescence in cells relevant to the skin, particularly when administered in a liposomal formulation. [3]

However, strong clinical confirmation is lacking.

There are no robust, controlled human studies demonstrating that conventional NAD+ serums or toners reduce wrinkles, improve elasticity, increase collagen levels, reduce discolouration or result in visible skin rejuvenation specifically due to NAD+.

The current data therefore justify describing topical NAD+ as an emerging cosmetic ingredient with an interesting biological mechanism, rather than as a clinically proven method of skin rejuvenation.

NAD+ in skincare — a summary of the evidence

Frequently asked questions about NAD+ in skincare

Is NAD+ good for the skin?

NAD+ is of biological importance for normal cellular metabolism and many processes related to ageing. Laboratory research also suggests an effect on senescence-related processes in cells relevant to the skin.

However, it has not yet been demonstrated in controlled human studies that topical NAD+ alone improves wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, collagen levels, or other visible skin parameters.

Does NAD+ increase collagen production?

No direct increase in collagen in human skin has been demonstrated following the topical application of NAD+.

NAD+-dependent pathways, including sirtuin signalling, are biologically linked to fibroblast function and cellular senescence, but this mechanistic relationship should not be treated as clinical proof that NAD+ serum increases dermal collagen.

Can NAD+ and collagen be used together?

There is no known direct interaction indicating that NAD+-related products and oral collagen supplements are inherently incompatible.

They act via different biological pathways.

However, no suitable clinical studies have been conducted to evaluate this specific combination for skin benefits, so the claims of synergy remain unconfirmed.

Is NAD+ the same thing as niacinamide in cosmetics?

No.

NAD+ is nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, whereas niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that can serve as a precursor for the synthesis of NAD+ within cells.

Niacinamide also has a significantly larger base of direct clinical studies regarding skin care than topical NAD+ alone.

Does NAD+ help with wrinkles?

At present, there is no robust, controlled data from human studies showing that topical NAD+ alone reduces wrinkles.

Some NAD+ products also contain niacinamide and other ingredients for which there is evidence of an improvement in fine lines and skin appearance.

For this reason, it is difficult to attribute the observable effect solely to NAD+.

Does NAD+ penetrate the skin?

NAD+ is a relatively large, highly charged, and water-soluble molecule, which makes passive penetration through intact skin difficult.

Specialised delivery systems, such as liposomes, may improve transport, but the amount of intact NAD+ reaching living skin cells from standard commercial toners or serums has not been clearly established.

Are NAD+ skin boosters clinically proven?

Not as a standardised product category.

Individual formulations vary significantly and usually contain multiple active ingredients.

Human clinical evidence is currently stronger for ingredients such as niacinamide than for topical NAD+ itself.

Is liposomal NAD+ better for the skin?

Liposomal delivery is of interest from a mechanistic point of view, as it may enhance the transport of NAD+ into cells.

In laboratory studies, the liposomal NAD+ formulation had a stronger effect on certain markers of senescence than NAD+ without liposomes. [3]

However, no appropriate controlled cosmetic studies on humans have been conducted to confirm better visual effects.

Do Numbuzin, Medicube and Illuma products work thanks to NAD+?

This has not been demonstrated for NAD+ itself.

These products contain more complex ingredient systems, and the visible effects may result from the action of niacinamide, PDRN, peptides, moisturisers, antioxidants or other substances present in the formulation.

There is a lack of brand-specific clinical trials that would isolate NAD+ as the direct cause of improvement.

Limitations of current research

The main limitation is the lack of direct, controlled studies in humans specifically concerning topical NAD+.

No published placebo-controlled cosmetic study has been identified that isolates NAD+ and evaluates parameters such as wrinkles, elasticity, hydration, pigmentation, collagen, or visible skin rejuvenation.

The data most directly related to NAD+ come from studies using cell cultures. [3]

These studies are useful for understanding biological mechanisms.

However, they do not replicate the full properties of the skin barrier, tissue structure, circulation, metabolism or the long-term responses of living human skin.

Another limitation is the complexity of the formulation.

Commercial products from Numbuzin, Medicube, Illuma and other brands typically contain multiple active ingredients.

This makes it difficult to determine which ingredient is responsible for the visible effect.

Niacinamide is particularly important because it is frequently found in such products and already has controlled human studies confirming several cosmetic effects. [2]

Another limitation concerns transdermal absorption.

The molecular weight of NAD+, its charge and its solubility in water raise valid questions regarding the amount of the intact molecule that reaches living skin cells following the application of a standard toner or serum.

Specialised delivery technologies can improve this process, but they must be assessed on a case-by-case basis for each product.

Brand-specific data is also limited.

Research concerning a single NAD+ formulation cannot be automatically applied to every commercial product containing an ingredient with the same name.

The current data therefore justify treating topical NAD+ as an emerging and mechanistically interesting cosmetic ingredient, whilst acknowledging that niacinamide and several other active ingredients often found in the same formulations currently have stronger direct clinical evidence regarding visible benefits for the skin.

Disclaimer

This article is for educational and scientific-information purposes only. It does not constitute medical advice, dermatological recommendations, product selection advice, or an endorsement of NAD+ cosmetics, collagen supplements, or any of the mentioned brands.

Topical NAD+ products are usually sold as cosmetics, rather than approved treatments for wrinkles, pigmentation disorders, skin ageing, collagen loss or other dermatological problems. Current research does not confirm that topical NAD+ alone clinically increases collagen levels, reverses skin ageing or produces systemic effects associated with NAD+.

Brand names such as Numbuzin, Medicube and Illuma have been mentioned solely to describe products present in the cosmetics market. This should not be interpreted as a recommendation or proof that the NAD+ content in these products has been independently validated in controlled clinical trials.

Individuals with persistent skin irritation, inflammatory skin conditions, unexplained pigmentation changes, or other dermatological concerns should consult a suitably qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist, rather than treating NAD+ cosmetics as a medical treatment.

References

[1] Yoshino, J., Baur, J. A., & Imai, S. (2018). NAD+ intermediates: The biology and therapeutic potential of NMN and NR. Cell Metabolism, 27(3), 513–528. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cmet.2017.11.002

[2] Bissett, D. L., Miyamoto, K., Sun, P., Li, J., & Berge, C. A. (2004). Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in ageing facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26(5), 231–238. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00228.x

[3] Ministrini, S., Liberale, L., Erle, H.-E., Percoco, G., Tfayli, A., Assi, A., Kapitonov, I., Greiner, I., & Camici, G. G. (2025). A liposomal formulation enhances the anti-senescence properties of nicotinamide adenine-dinucleotide (NAD+) in endothelial cells and keratinocytes. Current Issues in Molecular Biology, 47(9), 722. https://doi.org/10.3390/cimb47090722